In 2022, we take care of our scalp, because it promises shinier, less fragile hair. New gestures, tailor-made treatments and expert products have been scrutinized. The result is a sublime mane, from tips to roots.
Attention, sensitive matter! We saw it at the last Oscars ceremony, where actor Will Smith slapped his colleague Chris Rock because of a bad joke on the zero ball of his wife Jada Pinkett Smith. The incident went around the world. And put the finger on a real phenomenon. In the United States, cases of alopecia are increasing in the African-American community due to the abuse of smoothing products. One in two black women would be affected. At home, we are not there yet, but we care more and more about our scalp. Often reserved for dermatologists due to baldness, psoriasis, dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, it is finally emerging from medical practices and specialized hair salons.
“We have long focused on the beauty of the hair and we have forgotten its root, recalls Stephan of the Leonor Greyl Institute. However, the scalp is the soil that nourishes it and oxygen, where the bulb, the sebaceous glands, the hair shaft, the hair follicle live… No strong, supple and shiny hair without fertile, healthy and well maintained!” With stress, pollution, unbalanced diet, bicycle or motorbike helmets, chemical colorings, shampoos quickly made badly, taking medication… Stephan sees hyperreactive and overexcited scalps. Not to mention the worries of falling, rarer in women, but no less real, especially during the change of seasons, pregnancies, menopause… The expert nevertheless notes a decrease in severe alopecia. “There is still an awareness and an improvement in products and lifestyle,” he admits.
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Scrubs, serums, lotions… Today, the most chic brands indulge in hair care. And not only to beautify the fiber, but indeed to care for the scalp. Sisley initiated the movement four years ago with the Hair Rituel by Sisley range. “The skull is skin. It is logical that care experts are interested in it, recalls Marie-Laure Pons, international marketing director of the brand. In recent years, there have also been many studies on the effects of stress or pollution on hair health. Containment was the detonator. Deprived of hairdressers, women began to take care of themselves and took pleasure in it.
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Since then, everyone has taken our head in hand, including Augustinus Bader, Dr. Barbara Sturm or Guerlain, who recalls that in 1878, there were seventy hair preparations in the catalogue! Quinine Water, which “fortified hair tired by perspiration”, was sold until 1970. “For thirty years, the arrival of molecular biology, progress in microscopic imaging, knowledge of the scalp and its microbiome have been the subject of numerous scientific papers”, adds Frédéric Bonté, director of research, who also recommends taking care of both your scalp and your skin!
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With a mild shampoo. As natural as possible, without chemical surfactants, sulphates, silicones… like Christophe-Nicolas Biot’s My Protocol Cleansing Milk. “When you have to treat, it’s already a bit late,” says the hairdresser and colorist. The main thing is to respect your scalp on a daily basis. No need to empty the shampoo bottle on your head. With the palms of the hand flat, move the scalp and massage with the fingertips. We never rub the lengths, they clean themselves during rinsing. The right rhythm: twice a week. In powder or solid form, the new “clean & green” shampoos also facilitate the massage operation.
With an exfoliant. Fred, Cut by Fred’s hair guru, suffered from psoriasis. “Exfoliating, massaging, moisturizing… I realized that it didn’t take much to solve a lot of problems, and that the sea did me a lot of good”, testifies the surfer hairdresser. Once or twice a week, its Salt Scrub with sea salt, rosemary essential oil and malachite extract cleanses, purifies and rebalances the skin of the skull. After the legendary Purifying Cleansing Scrub with sea salt, Christophe Robin now offers a Purifying Mask with thermal mud, a detoxifying pre-shampoo that cleanses and strengthens. You can also bet on the Cleansing Scrub Purifying Detox & Repair, John Frieda, or the Scalp Exfoliating Scrub, John Masters Organics.
With daily brushing. “It’s the first gesture of hair hygiene, insists Véronique Lamrani, hair therapist. Long before shampooing, this not only removes dust, pollution particles, pollen and styling residue, but also stimulates blood microcirculation and controls sebum production. The ideal brush has boar bristles and a pneumatic massage effect. I recommend brushing the scalp and the lengths as you remove make-up from your skin, for at least one minute, from the neck to the temples and up to the forehead. Thoroughly clean the brush afterwards and do not lend it.”
With a “scalp brush». This round brush, with soft silicone bristles, is the new must-have accessory for oxygenating and stimulating your scalp. Fred, who brought his from Japan, uses it before, during and after washing. It advantageously replaces fingers for massaging. It can be used regularly dry, just to massage your skull, possibly with a lotion with essential oils. During the shampoo, the scalp brush optimizes the wash, and afterwards, it can help to distribute the conditioner or the mask on the whole of the hair. Shop at Cut by Fred, Sachajuan, Leonor Greyl, Oh My Cream!
With a hair serum. In cure or daily, dry or on wet hair, it applies directly to the scalp, morning or evening, and does not rinse. Very fluid, it penetrates without stickiness, regenerates, rebalances, stimulates, soothes, fights against aging and thinning hair. Used regularly, it even delays the appearance of white hair.
With an antiperspirant. “In our salons, we have always specialized in hair anti-aging, but we have spotted another phenomenon, notes Carine Touret of La Biostétique, that of the damp scalp which is too often confused with oily hair, so badly treated.” This is not an excess of sebum, but a specifically feminine sweating problem. Periods, night sweats, emotions, sporting activity… Not only does the hair have less hold and are difficult to style, but this very alkaline sweat causes hair loss and loss of density. “It is important not to use products for oily hair that attack the scalp, continues the expert. We have developed the Hydrotoxa method, which includes a shampoo with a pH identical to the skin and a slightly acidic lotion that does not rinse and reduces the harmful effects of day-to-day perspiration.” labiosthetique.fr
With light. The Christophe-Nicolas Biot My Protocol Energizing Treatment always ends with fifteen minutes of capillary light therapy, LED technology that stimulates, heals, stops hair loss and reactivates hair growth. The well-being effect in addition. €120 for 45 minutes. christophenicolasbiot.com
With an Ayurvedic poultice.“Take care of your hair like your skin” is also the philosophy of Delphine Courteille, who receives the whole of Paris in her Hair Spa. In one hour, its Scalp Rehab treatment delicately cleanses the scalp, regulates its pH and sebum production thanks to detox brushing, a shiatsu massage and a poultice made from Ayurvedic powders… €95 for 60 minutes. delphinecourteille.com
With a massage. Highly vascularized and endowed with three hundred reflex points that speak to the whole body, the skull is the nerve center of our balance. And the head massages, a great moment of relaxation and pleasure! A classic of traditional Chinese or Ayurvedic medicine to relieve tension, revive energy, fight against fatigue, stress, headaches, sleep disorders. We let ourselves be taken by the head (but also the face, the shoulders and the arms). At Lanqi, for the Harmonie scalp treatment, 1 hour, €70. At La Maison du Tui Na, for the Yang Ju head massage, 50 minutes, €85. At Espace Weleda, for the head and scalp massage, 35 minutes, €71.
With the head down. According to yogi masters, inversion poses cause a rush of nutrient-rich blood to the scalp, which oxygenates and nourishes the hair. For it to work, you just need to have your head lower than your heart, like during the candle, but be careful, without leaning on your head…
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With vitamins. “To have healthy hair, you need quality keratin,” explains nutritionist Christian Latgé. And that goes through the plate. Indeed, the bulb draws the nutrients via the blood capillaries. If one of them is missing, the cycle goes wrong. However, the hair is greedy of sulfur amino acids, in particular cysteine and methionine. Vitamins B, PP, B6 or B8, certain minerals such as iron are very important co-enzymatic factors. They are found in milk, cheese, eggs, meat, fish. And brewer’s yeast! However, today, everyone more or less follows a “particular” diet, lactose-free or animal protein-free. “Hence the interest, according to him, of dietary supplements. From one month, we begin to see the difference, but the ideal is to continue the cure for three months.
Hair menu, in & out: Anacaps Reactiv capsules + Serum Creastim Reactiv, Ducray. Sure values: Phytophanère, Phyto; Capillary Oenobiol; Bepanthene; Boost capsules, Lazartigue. New generation : Good Hair Gummies, Lashile; Hairboost Madam President.
With essential oils. The anti-hair loss recipe of Martine Blaize-de Peretti, herbalist pharmacist who has just published Healing with plants (Editions Eyrolles). “Dilute five drops of the following essential oils: Virginia cedar, cineole rosemary and ylang-ylang in a tablespoon of sesame, jojoba or hazelnut oil. Once a week, spread well over the entire scalp and massage in with your fingertips. Keep for an hour and then shampoo.” A great ready-to-use classic, Complexe 5, René Furterer.
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With artificial intelligence. To find out what’s really going on in your head, the HairDiag by Ieva camera scans the scalp and hair, then establishes your personalized hair profile and your Elenature routine. This new range of hair care eco-responsible was designed to protect the hair and scalp from environmental stress. To find out where to test the device: elenature.com
With a capillary rehab. Created by the Carita sisters, Le Soin Rénovateur Cheveux has been on the Maison de Beauté menu since 1956 and always begins by waking up the scalp with a hundred brush strokes. Then comes the Renovator, the brand’s iconic product with essential oils, applied line by line with draining maneuvers, a shampoo applied dry with a brush, without forgetting Fluide 14 with a lemony scent and a princess brushing. €145 for 1 hour 15 minutes.
With suction cups. This is the highlight of the Leonor Greyl Institute treatment protocol. They come to stimulate the scalp after the diagnosis, the personalized poultice under ozone vapor which washes and treats at the same time, the lotion and the cream. From €100 to €115 for 1h30. leonorgreyl.com
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“Care for your scalp like your skin”: the right steps to find soft and shiny hair
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