When Ioma, more than ten years ago, installed its first skin diagnostic terminals at Marionnaud with precise measurements of sebum, hydration and wrinkles, the brand was a pioneer at the cutting edge of technology. Now, thanks to smartphones, tablets and artificial intelligence (AI), beauty is increasingly connected and initiatives are multiplying to offer personalized experiences, whether at the point of sale or at home.
The holy grail of made-to-measure
Care side The main Sephora stores have Skin Diagnosis which, thanks to a lens connected to a smart-phone, which is placed on three areas of the face, reveals a panel of recommended treatments, all brands combined. At Lancôme, it is a machine similar to that of dermatology centers, the Skin Screen, which, with three photos (face and profiles), analyzes thirteen parameters (wrinkles, spots, redness, hydration, etc.), determines the state of the skin, its priorities, and issues an appropriate prescription. “We will soon release the mobile version, providing the same diagnosis from a smartphone application and a selfie”, explains Annie Black, scientific director of Lancôme International. Even more impressive is the connected mirror from Pierre Fabre laboratories. After a few questions (age, care routine, expectations, etc.), a photo is displayed, on which the skin analysis appears, with a mapping of elements: acne, wrinkles, shine, redness, radiance, spots… Tested since 2020 at the Lab, the Toulouse concept store of the group, it has just arrived in two pharmacies, in Saint-Laurent-du-Var and in Paris. The pinnacle of the experience, myBlend, the brand created by Olivier Courtin, Managing Director of Clarins, opened a holistic space in Paris in September, where “beauty tech” occupies a prominent place. In addition to a skin diagnosis, you can test the LED mask, comfortably installed and lulled by music. Finally, Yves Saint Laurent Beauté presented at VivaTech, the technology fair, its future Scent-Sation, an immersive experience with a connected headset that evaluates emotional responses to different scents, to find the fragrance that most reveals our emotions. To be continued…
Make-up side We find this principle with Lancôme’s E-Shade Finder, a tool on the Internet which, from three points (forehead, cheek, chin), indicates the best-suited foundation shades of the brand. It also allows you to find the right mascara according to your type of eyelashes, starting from a zoomed photo. Sephora has already launched in the United States (and will soon do so in France) the Mobile Color iQ, which, on the model of its Skin Diagnosis, captures skin tone with its undertones to better orient itself in complexion offers.
The app boom
On smartphones, digital experiences abound, and even more so since the pandemic, which has seen an explosion in online sales. In order to offer the same advice at home as in store, part of the Marionnaud site is devoted to the Love Your Skin program, which provides online diagnostics, a blog, tutorials and master classes. The La Roche-Posay brand has developed Spotscan, an app to take good care of your acne thanks to a selfie, while at Vichy, SkinConsult can detect the signs of aging to better treat them. A pioneer, L’Oréal Paris has developed personalized questionnaires on its site to target its care, make-up, coloring… Finally, Make Up For Ever also offers on its site, from a selfie, a Shade Finder, which helps to find its shade, with a virtual fitting of its lipsticks.
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The future at your fingertips
For 2023, Make Up For Ever is preparing an even more advanced tool, combining artificial intelligence with the expertise of
her professional make-up artists. Available in-store and online, MorphoBeauty first scans the face. Then, based on the desires expressed (slim your face, sculpt your cheeks, look for a matte or glowy finish…), he offers tutorials for the complexion with the gestures and the right shade to obtain the desired result. In some stores, very powerful devices are also appearing, such as the Dior mask, developed in partnership with Lucibel and equipped with LED technology, or the Lancôme Cryo-Sculptor, which accompanies the launch of the new skincare product in the Absolue range, combining LED and cryotherapy. Tomorrow, the future of beauty could be played out in the world of metaverse! And this is not science fiction… In the United States, Sephora has already experimented with Sephoria entertainment, a virtual house offering different spaces with exclusive presentations of new products, round tables of experts, DJs sets, chats… L’Oréal is not to be outdone, since the group is now developing a whole metaverse with artists around some of its most prestigious brands, such as Mugler and Yves Saint Laurent.
At home: regularity pays off!
Gua sha and rollers are often accompanied by advice and seek to reproduce the perfect gestures of facialists. As for the high-tech machines fitted with light-emitting LEDs, they have moved upmarket and now make it possible to test a number of innovative treatments without leaving the house. But, as with cosmetics, you might as well know that only diligence will deliver results. However, there is no question of wanting to force nature: you must follow the instructions for use to the letter and avoid using the devices on irritated skin or in the event of pregnancy. Not that these are necessarily harmful, but they have not been tested on pregnant women. The investment for certain hyper-sophisticated machines being quite substantial, it is preferable to try the devices at the point of sale before committing. However, you can also contribute to several to lower the cost significantly, but it is better, in this case, to be geographically close!
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